The Birds and the Beans in Boulder, Colorado

At a cozy café in Boulder’s Gunbarrel community, a barista carefully weighs coffee grounds to prepare an oat milk latte for a waiting customer. The coffee beans roasted for this drink represent more than just a caffeine boost. They are one of Ampersand Coffee Roasters’ three Bird Friendly certified roasts, which support conservation efforts for migratory birds.

The Smithsonian Bird Friendly Coffee Initiative has promoted healthy coffee-growing landscapes for almost 25 years. Certified farms are primarily located in Latin America but have extended as far out as India and Ethiopia. These certifications are based on stringent research-driven criteria for preserving native habitats. They require farms to commit not only to bird conservation but also to broader biodiversity efforts. By choosing bird friendly options, consumers can make a small yet impactful change to contribute to a larger movement toward sustainable agriculture.

“The fact that this is a scientific program that is rooted in research really puts biodiversity first in a way that is unrivaled in the rest of the marketplace,” explains Kirstin Hill, Bird Friendly Program Manager for the Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center.

In the weeks leading up to World Migratory Bird Day on October 12, 2024, millions of birds pass through Colorado on their way to warmer climates in Latin America. Upon arrival, many of these birds are hungry and in need of a place to land. The Bird Friendly Coffee project began in Panamá with these birds in mind. Ornithologists assessing bird populations noticed a decline in birds on cleared land, while areas with high-quality shade supported more avian life.

Tropical regions where migratory birds winter provide ideal land for coffee farming. When these forests are cleared for agriculture or development, bird habitats are often destroyed. These impacts can be lasting. The removal of tall trees eliminates vital shade cover, water sources may dwindle, and insects can become scarce, leading to food shortages for birds. The consequences for bird populations can therefore be fatal. 

To address these concerns, the Smithsonian Bird Friendly certification requires farmers to demonstrate that there has not been any deforestation on their farms in the last ten years. This promotes additional criteria including an average shade cover requirement of 40% or more with shade trees over 12 meters tall (or a commitment to allowing growth to this height).

Further, these trees must be diverse and native. Certified farms are required to have an average of at least ten different species of trees and woody shrubs per hectare, 60% of which must be native. Bird Friendly farms must also be certified organic and prohibit the hunting or killing of birds on the property.

“I’ve been on some of these plots of land,” says Kurt Hans, Ampersand Coffee CEO, “and the Bird Friendly ones are much more lush and jungle-like.” This distinction accentuates the health benefits of Bird Friendly farming practices, which contribute to a more vibrant ecosystem.

Bird Friendly practices also promote a symbiotic environment. “Even though the certification is Bird Friendly, our ultimate goal is the conservation of biodiversity in general, using birds as indicators of ecosystem health,” says Melissa Mazurkewicz, Bird Friendly Program Manager for Latin America.

A borer beetle known as “la broca” is a Latin American pest that can significantly damage coffee plants. Migratory birds such as warblers have been found to eat these, among other pests, on coffee farms. Serving as a natural pest management system, this can eliminate the need for pesticides in areas where these birds thrive.

Bird Friendly requirements also serve the farmers by creating hospitable conditions for harvesting and offering additional income opportunities. Farmers have shade to work under and their shade cover can include banana or avocado trees which can also bring profit.

“Even if you're just looking for a good cup of coffee,” Hill says, “There's good science behind that too.” When coffee is grown in the shade, the growth process is slower than it would be if it had constant sun exposure. This allows the flavors and beans to develop further, enhancing the overall taste of the coffee.

“Birds are one of the most accessible connections we have, as people, to nature. You can look out your window on most days, and you see birds regardless of where you’re living,” Hill adds. This accessibility stresses the importance of Bird Friendly initiatives in bridging the gap between consumer choices and environmental impact. Every cup of Bird Friendly coffee serves as a reminder that supporting sustainable practices can contribute to the health of our ecosystems. 

For Hans, Bird Friendly Coffee is about more than a love of birds. His goal with Ampersand Coffee is to “make the world a better place through consumerism.” Ampersand Coffee is highly certified. Roasts are organic and fair-trade, including coffee from women-owned farms. “People are passionate about the birds,” he explains. If using birds as a focal point helps engage people in environmental conservation on a wider scale, he says he is “all in.”

For the Smithsonian Bird Friendly team, their work is far from done. Several states still lack Bird Friendly options which Hill, who oversees outreach and recruitment, attributes to a general lack of awareness. Despite having a small team, they are committed to expanding their reach. Hill aims to partner with 100 roasters by the end of 2024, with over 90 already on board. At the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute in Panamá, Mazurkewicz continues to facilitate farm audits to ensure compliance with established criteria, while educating communities about best practices for environmental sustainability.

In Colorado, the connection between birds and the Bird Friendly initiative is clear. The same birds flying over Boulder right now are the birds seeking refuge at Bird Friendly farms in Latin America. “They're going to be the ones that come back to our bird feeders, to our parks, to our backyards,” Hill states. “The coffee that's in your cup can affect that individual bird and its likelihood of survival in the long run. And that, to me, is a completely remarkable thing.”